To be apparent (and similarly to Drive), this isn’t a unisex offering — something which Cartier normally excels at — like the Tank (celebrating its 100th anniversary this season) or the Ballon Bleu that has a small but significant male following. Panthère is to be marketed and targeted simply to ladies, regardless of how little your XY-chromosome wrist may be.Firstly the name, and in Cartier land this huge cat needs no introduction, having become a muse of this maison since 1914. Interestingly, when the watch was initially launched in 1983 it was briefly referred to as the ‘Santos D’ (D for Demoiselle), using borrowed stylistics like a square dial, visible screws on the bezel and integrated lugs that blend in the bracelet strap out of its punchy big brother.Its re-naming as Panthère was, based on Cartier, due to the supple articulated link bracelet mimicking the motion of a panther as it slinks through the jungle, which seems faintly ridiculous now. However, the bracelet in silver, gold or wrapped in diamonds is exactly what this watch is all about, defining it mostly as a piece of jewelry, that also tells the time.Back from the Eighties, Panthère was launched at a time when Cartier was eager to define and capture a new generation of younger client. A couple of years ago a similar call to action revolved round the jeweller. “It was clear we had a strong manifesto for women,” says Arnaud Carrez, Cartier’s international communciations and advertising director, “and rather than designing a brand new watch it made more sense to re-launch something which has the potential to become an icon around again. The watch is bold and sophisticated,” Carrez goes on, “but womanly, yet importantly not girly. We see it as the perfect accessory, stacked with our Love bangles or the Juste un Clou.”
Tiny tweaks are made to the design, largely for practical reasons; it’s now more waterproof and the link bracelet is more durable, but otherwise it is pretty loyal to its 1980s roots (including its quartz movement), especially in the yellow golden variant, a very clear signal that its warm glow is coming back into fashion.Steel, bi-colour and white gold variations, some paved about the bezel, also exist in two dimensions, small or medium. There is also one fully molded white gold and silver model, along with a stand-out white tan and black enamel panther print jewelled offering, the trendiest watch (if that’s possible) that I’ve noticed for a long time.But for purists the more compact version in yellow gold is the best — a perfect sling-on watch for every day with over sufficient polished metal to take it readily into night; just this time around the shoulder pads and ra-ra skirt are optional.Cartier is many things — classic, chic, and trendy are just a couple of words to describe that brand. They have produced a huge selection of watches since their founding in 1847, such as the Tank (whose 100th anniversary is coming in September), the Ballon Bleu, the Santos, Roadster (RIP), and finally the Panthère de Cartier. I didn’t know exactly what to expect this year out of Cartier, but was happy to find they’d brought back the Panthère de Cartier Panthere Celeste Replica collection for a focal point for 2017. They’ve revived this classic set with fantastic enthusiasm, and in a variety of metals and finishes.The panther was initially utilized at a watercolor painting commissioned by Louis Cartier back in 1914 (Woman With A Panther, by George Barbier) and Mr. Cartier enjoyed the picture so much that it became the symbol of the brand; later in 1914 the initial “Panther” item was made by Cartier — which was a bracelet watch, set with onyx and diamonds. The Panthère de Cartier watch collection was originally established in 1983, and was in creation all the way during the early 2000s as it had been discontinued. Cartier has reinstated the Panthère watch set in two sizes, and nine finishes or metals.
What other watches are there that may compete with the Panthère de Cartier La Panthere 75 Ml Tester Replica in stainless steel? A few. The most obvious being the Cartier Tank Francaise.The Tank Francaise is a similar opinion from the sense it is a square(ish) steel watch with a bracelet out of Cartier. And though the aesthetic might be totally different to the trained eye (brushed finish, thicker bracelet, rectangular case, etc.), it is clearly in precisely the exact same family. Nonetheless, these watches are being marketed to people mostly on aesthetic reasons, and in that regard, there are plenty of instances for somebody definitively desiring one or another. It’s worth noting that the stainless steel Tank prices $3,750, while the comparable Panthère prices $4,600. So at the end of the day, this one actually only comes down to personal style (and $850). Another watch on the marketplace which could give the Panthère a run for the money is the Rolex Oyster Perpetual in 36mm. The Oyster Perpetual is much wider compared to the Panthère and prices more, at $5,400, but it can still readily fill thae role of a steel regular watch on a bracelet, albeit in a different way. This view also brings into play an automatic motion and the name, each of which can obviously be game-changers for certain customers.A better comparison may be the new 28mm Lady-Datejust in steel, that was re-introduced this year at Baselworld in three new versions. The metal version with a pink dial and Roman numerals may get closer to the delicate femininity of this Panthère, however, again, this can be a far cry from Cartier’s particular aesthetic. Retailing for $6,300, it’s also in a higher price bracket.
So as to fully comprehend the effect of this type of watch, it is very important to understand what it was up against at the moment. Following the passing of Pierre Cartier Panthere 1100 Replica in 1964, both children and nephew proceeded to sell the family enterprise. Because of this, the company was split up into three semi-autonomous companies, Cartier New York, Cartier Paris, and Cartier London, with each producing different products at different times. This generated an irregular brand strategy and enabled for each location to do its thing. In one specific instance, Cartier New York started selling a gold-plated steel Tank watch for $150 at 1971. It was unheard of in the moment, and greatly devalued the picture of the brand in the eyes of several longtime patrons.You have to remember that, at the moment, Cartier was the ultimate luxury brand up until the 1970s it had been producing super exclusive, astronomically costly, and very high quality objets — think Mystery Clocks, personalized shutter watches, and ornate cigarette cases. So selling a gold-plated watch was sacrilege, even though the watch did very well commercially. Despite marring the image, the concept of a less expensive watch later resulted in the Must de Cartier set in 1977, after Cartier was purchased by a group of shareholders. The group was the brainchild of Joseph Kanoui (who gathered a group of investors to buy Cartier, Paris), Alain Dominique Perrin, also Robert Hocq. The collection included a variety of shapes and has been produced in gold-plated silver, allowing for a more reasonable price. It was a method of re-branding and appealing to a broader audience (much like Montblanc and TAG Heuer producing smartwatches today), when quartz movements came into play, it was all the more accessible.
If these comparisons look a little unusual and it does not quite feel like something is a direct competitor, that’s because nothing really is. The steel Panthère has all of that great Cartier style that you can not find anywhere else — and, if we are being honest, most people who desire a Cartier watch just need a Cartier watch. It’s the style, the brand, and also the background they are buying, so likely nothing else will quite do.One of the main items to reflect is the fact that the Panthère de Cartier in 1983 has been a high-luxury timepiece compared to the remainder of the market at that moment. Fast forward to today, and the same precise watch has become almost mainstream in precisely the same industry. Additionally, what the Panthère de Cartier will best is appeal to a particular group of buyers. These buyers aren’t watch nerds and they are not worried high-end movements. They might not even be interested in most of the usual-suspect ladies’ watches. I think that is why I was so surprised that I loved wearing it so much. After years of whining about a lack of mechanical watches for ladies, I found myself back in the origin with a 27mm quartz ladies’ watch and I adored it. I believe that the significant takeaway here is that the Panthère de Cartier re-affirms that good design and wearability are more than half of the battle. This is some thing that Cartier understands and applies to all its products. It is a strategy that obviously works. I’ve always been a huge fan of Cartier and the Panthère de Cartier further solidifies that. And I am sure I am not the only one.
The size of this bezel and screws are a lot smaller on the Cartier Panthère than on the Santos, and the lugs are more pliable, as is the crown. And on the Santos, there’s absolutely no border on the railroad track index. (Although there was a boundary on the index of the original Santos watch generated in 1904). The Santos was created for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, a friend of Louis Cartier, to let him time his flight legs without needing to take his hand away from the controls to reach for his pocket watch. It was a hit in Parisian society, and Cartier launched it commercially a couple of years later. The Santos-Dumont’s square shape was revolutionary for its time, and thus began Cartier’s venture into the world of shaped watches.Although that the Cartier Panthère volume collection was created in 1983, Cartier has been producing jeweled Panther-themed watches because even before it generated the Santos watch in 1904 — the only guys who were wearing wristwatches in the time were soldiers in the South African Boer War, and that was since Africa’s climate was too hot to get a waist jacket, where a man’s pocket watch is correctly kept. Cartier continues its heritage of jeweled Panther watches every year. This year, the new jewelry creations included, most notably, the Royale and the Joueuse.
Since Cartier reinvigorated its nice watchmaking department eight years ago, it has surprised us annually with one great complex watch after a second. This year, Cartier needed a different kind of surprise: a revival of this Panthère de Cartier, that had been stopped in the early aughts. Aside from a new Minute Repeater Mysterious Dual Tourbillon (new in the sense that these complications have been combined for the first time), the Cartier Panthère De Cartier was the main launch at SIHH this year, making it crystal clear that ladies’ watches are not second tier in marketing strength or sales.When that you have a look at the condition of this watch industry within the last year, the reintroduction of the Panthère De Cartier isn’t all that surprising. Like the Tank, Santos, along with other iconic volume collections, the Cartier Panthère is a bread-and-butter center collection: a certain thing in an unsteady sector. With multiple references and price factors, it is precisely what the market appears to call for, again, in the moment.The Cartier Panthère was originally introduced in 1983, and the relaunch design is precisely the same as the original: square case with screws around the bezel, Roman numerals, railroad track index, and a tiny Cartier logo embossed in the X digit — distinguishing it from the counterfeits. Just the bracelet construction is new — it is more supple. All the moves are walnut, which keeps the eye elegantly thin, and true to the original layout, which came into being in the height of the quartz era.The fresh Panthère de Cartier is a full set in three dimensions with a pavé variant, a lacquer and gold version, a yellowish gold version — a celebrity of the original collection — plus a two-tone version, with costs ranging from $4,000 to $140,000.
What exactly does all this have to do with the Panthère? To be clear, the Panthère wasn’t part of this Must de Cartier La Panthere Legere 9ml Replica collection, which is the reason why it likely was such a hit with certain clientele. Additionally, there were not that many fresh-to-market designs at the time, which makes the Panthère even more desirable. But what I think is most interesting about the time of the 1983 launch of the Panthère is that even though it seems like a simple ladies’ watch, it was rather a big release for Cartier throughout a time of increasingly affordable timepieces and have to have been a hero set for a heritage maison attempting to recover its footing in the worldwide industry. It was initially launched in mini, small, medium, and large sizes, in two-tone and yellow-gold choices (using a steel version introduced in 1991). The Panthère vanished sometime in the early 2000s, leaving a gap in Cartier’s lineup — until now.The Panthère is a girls’ watch which appears to based on the first Santos, though Cartier doesn’t communicate about the opinion that way in any way. It sports a comparable square case with a bezel secured by eight small screws. It has a traditional horizontal white dial with elongated Roman numerals along with the key “Cartier” signature in the “X” at 10 o’clock. The design is bold, controlled, and pragmatic all at once — without trying too hard. This is the secret to its success and why it appeals to a lot of. The watch now comes in small (22mm) and medium (27mm) dimensions, in rose gold, yellow gold, steel, and two-tone. There are a couple different variations, including a variant with black lacquered links, that begin to move into top jewelry land as well. With this review, I am focusing on the moderate size in stainless steel, which, to me, seems like the best daily-wear option.
Tiny tweaks are made to the layout, largely because of practical reasons; it’s now more waterproof and the link bracelet is stronger, but it is very faithful to its 1980s roots (including its quartz movement), especially in the yellow gold version, a very clear sign that its warm glow is coming back into fashion.Steel, bi-colour and white gold variations, a few paved about the bezel, also exist in 2 sizes, small or medium. There’s also one totally molded white gold and silver model, along with a stand-out white tan and black enamel panther print jewelled offering, the trendiest watch (if that’s possible) that I’ve seen for a long time.But for purists the more compact model in yellow gold is the best — a great sling-on watch for every day with more than sufficient polished metal to take it easily into night; only this time around the shoulder pads and ra-ra skirt are optional.Cartier is lots of things — classic, chic, and cool are only a few words to describe that particular brand. I didn’t know what to expect this year out of Cartier, but was happy to find they’d brought back the Panthère de Cartier collection as a focal point for 2017. They’ve revived this classic set with fantastic enthusiasm, and at a range of metals and finishes.The panther was first used in a watercolor painting commissioned by Louis Cartier back in 1914 (Woman With A Panther, by George Barbier) and Mr. Cartier liked the picture so much that it became the symbol of the brand; later in 1914 the initial “Panther” piece was made by Cartier — that was a bracelet watch, set with onyx and diamonds. The Panthère de Cartier watch set was originally launched in 1983, and has been in production all the way through the early 2000s when it had been stopped. Cartier has reinstated the Panthère watch set in two dimensions, and nine metals and/or finishes.
What I love most about the Panthère is that it looks equally good on either a buttoned-up Junior Leaguer or a fashion-forward Voguette. It’s a timeless quality that anybody can pull off and it comes in a variety of metals and sizes. You can really make this view your own, regardless of how easy it might seem. My favourite is the medium-sized steel version, which measures 27mm on each side. While the rose gold variant is also beautiful, the steel is unquestionably the most versatile and will likely be Cartier’s hottest version. It retails for $4,600, which is among the lower cost points in which you’ll be able to find a Cartier timepiece.On the wrist, the watch feels excellent. It is that simple. It is stylish and refined, elegant and easy to wear. I could easily see myself wearing this to play with tennis (because I’m a prep at heart which is what one does with a watch like this) or to attend a few of these black tie galas I do not get invited too (I am looking at you, Met Gala). The longer I spent with all the opinion the easier it became to determine why this was so hot when it first came out. As I said before, the bracelet is 50 percent of the appeal of the watch. It looks great, sure, but it’s also crucial in making this watch really simple to wear. Due to how the connections are laid out and connected to one another, the bracelet hugs your wrist with no pinching and can easily be adjusted with the screw-set links close to the grip. The deployant clasp is hidden, just like on the first, and it is simple to unclip with a single hand. The only gripe I have is that the bracelet end-links relate to the scenario, instead of to the ends of the lugs — that can allow for a few bizarre overhang, with the lugs sticking out a small bit, but it’s not the end of the planet.
|Case material||Yellow gold|
|Bracelet material||Yellow Gold|
|Location||United States of America, Georgia, Atlanta|
|Case material||Yellow gold|
|Case diameter||22 mm|
|Material bezel||Yellow gold|
|Dial numerals||Roman numerals|
|Bracelet material||Yellow Gold|
|Bracelet length||165 mm|
|Clasp||Fold clasp, hidden|
|Blue Steel Hands|
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Case: 18k yellow gold case 22.0 x 22.0 mm (28.0 including the lugs).Octagonal crown set with diamond.Diamond set lugs and case.
Movement: Quartz movement.
Bracelet: 18k yellow gold diamond bracelet with hidden deployment clasp.Fits 6.5″ wrist.
Condition: Previously Worn Mint condition.Running strong and keeping the accurate time.
Dial: Silvered dial with black roman numerals.Sword shaped blued steel hands.Secret Cartier signature at X.
Bezel: 18k yellow gold diamond bezel.
Box & Papers: Cartier box and booklet
Warranty: The watch is covered by Swiss Watch Expo one year warranty on anything but abuse
Pictures: All the photos are of the actual watch for sale
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Every watch we sell is 100% authentic guaranteed, in excellent working and cosmetic condition. Every watch is authenticated and properly serviced/polished (if within service window) in our watch repair center right before we list it for sale.
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– External damage to the product not covered under warranty: any damage resulting from wear to the watch case, crystal/glass, watch bracelet, watch bezel, straps, screws, crown/stem, finishes, clasps/buckles, or any other physical damage to the watch.
– Also not covered: a) defects caused by outside force or improper use, b) consequential and incidental damages, and c) the loss of precious and/or semi-precious stones from settings.
– Outside modifications and third-party repair attempts of any kind will void the warranty.
– Any damage if used under conditions which exceed the watch manufacturer’s water resistance guidelines, and/or as indicated above regarding accidental water intrusion caused by the end user, will also not be covered.
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